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Rigidizing Fiber Board

 

This is part two of a three part tip on rigidizing fiber board.  Click here to go to part one, which tells you about colloidal silica and colloidal alumina.

 

Prior to rigidizing your fiber board, you should cut it to the size and shape desired.  Since most rigidizers only treat the external edges of the board, it's essential to complete all cutting before the rigidizing treatment.

 

Colloidal silica and colloidal alumina are both used in the same fashion.  You should wear a respirator to protect yourself from fiber particles and from the rigidizing products.  You should also wear rubber gloves and take caution not to spill the liquid. 

 

Cleanup will be a bit easier if you get a container to hold the board being rigidized.  (Large shallow plastic containers are fairly inexpensive and easy to find.)  Place the board in the container, then apply your rigidizer over the board. 

 

The rigidizer can be sprayed on, but more often it is applied by pouring or by brushing the liquid onto the board with a large paintbrush.  Allow approximately half a gallon (two liters) for a 24" by 36" sheets of fiber board.  You want to totally saturate the board, so you will need to flip it several times to make certain the liquid soaks in.

 

Once the board is well soaked, you can pour off the excess liquid back into the original container.  It's re-usable.  The next step is drying the board, which is the subject of tomorrow's tip.

 

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Copyright 2005 Brad Walker.  All rights reserved.

Thanks to various posters on the Warm Glass bulletin board for information included in this post, with special thanks to Bert Weiss, Phil Hoppes, and Graham Stone.

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Copyright 2005-2006 by M. Bradley Walker.  All rights reserved.

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